Welcome to Issue #105 of SIN.
This issue features an interesting mix of tragedy and triumph.
Following the Noto earthquake that hit the Ishikawa region on New Year's Day, there have been some disheartening reports of those that will continue to feel the effects of this disaster for years to come. On the flip side we have reports of courageous comebacks.
It's far from over for the community and brewers of Noto, but as we hear from some breweries that suffered in disasters in the past, there is a path that leads to recovery and resurgence.
We hope these troubled breweries eventually find their path back to stability in the coming months, if not years.
And now for the news...
Round-Up Of Follow-Ups On The Ishikawa Earthquake
Ishikawa- The kuramoto of Matsunami Shuzō, Seiko Kinshichi, was finally able to return to the family brewery following the earthquake to assess the damage after five days in an evacuation center with seven members of her family.
The brewery was far from being in good shape - in fact Kinshichi was forced to smash a glass door to escape the collapsing 100-year old building when the quake hit. Upon visiting the ruins, Kinshichi was able to recover a cloth noren (curtain) from the entrance to the brewery and an old wooden sign of the brewery's flagship sake, Oeyama.
She remarked that although further brewing for this season is out of the question, she has not given up hope of resuming production at the family brewery which has been in operation since 1868.
- The brewing facilities at Hiyoshi Shuzōten were completely destroyed, although the kuramoto residence and cellar door shop remained standing. Fifth generation kuramoto, Akira Hiyoshi expressed concern for the quality of the water, which is normally sourced from underground springs through wells. Although the brewery lost a lot of sake, some rice was salvaged and Hiyoshi plans on making an imminent comeback.
- Hakutō Shuzōten and Kazuma Shuzō were among the breweries lucky enough to receive a helping hand from some breweries with their own experience in recovering from disaster.
Staff from Niizawa Jōzōten, which suffered through the Tohoku earthquake of 2011, drove 630 kilometers from Miyagi Prefecture to Noto bearing tanks containing three tons of water as a donation. The water was exchanged for salvaged moromi from Hakuto Shuzō and Kazuma Shuzō to be taken back to Miyagi for pressing.
Suzuki Shuzōten, which moved from Fukushima to Yamagata following the Tohoku Earthquake, also helped with taking rescued moromi to several other breweries for pressing including Mioya Shuzō (Yuho), located in Noto, who fared better than others in the region, along with Tsuji Shūhan, Kaetsu Shuzō and Shata Shuzō The breweries helped move more than 2000 liters. (Read more about these activities in the last article of this issue, below.)
- Tsuruno Shuzōten has lost all of its sake for the season. Shintaro Tsuruno, 14th generation kuramoto and brewer only took over the business from his late father in 2021 following a career in IT. As a small brewery, Tsuruno has expressed doubt over the future of the family brewery.
According to the Ishikawa Prefecture Brewers Association, out of 11 breweries severely affected, at least eight will not be able to brew sake this season.
Eight breweries were completely destroyed but three breweries (Hakuto Shuzōten, Kazuma Shuzō and Sōgen Shuzō(Suzu) escaped from a complete collapse.
Sōgen Shuzō resumed brewing on January 14.
Overall damage currently stands at:
Ishikawa Prefecture:
*Eight breweries reported being completely destroyed.
*Three breweries reported severe levels of damage.
*Up to 24 breweries out of 33 in the prefecture reported varying levels of damage ranging from spilled tanks to cracked or damaged structures.
*No fatalities have been reported from any breweries.
Toyama Prefecture
- According to the Toyama Brewers Association, out of 19 breweries, three have been subject to varying levels of damage. Takazawa Shuzōjo is still experiencing clarity issues with its underground spring water and tap water, leaving the brewery unable to resume production. (Breaking news: as we were putting the final touches on this issue, news came in that Takazawa Shuzō has in fact resumed brewing!)
Other surrounding prefectures have reported minimal levels of damage.
Sources- Mainichi | Asahi | Yomiuri | Auone | Sogen | Tokyo NP | NHK
JG: In truth there is not much more to say that has not already been said. Nevertheless, we express our heartfelt concern for all that have been affected by this calamity, and hope for as complete a recovery as possible, as soon as possible.
松波酒造（大江山）, 日吉酒造店 （金瓢白駒）, 白藤酒造店（奥能登の白菊）, 鈴木酒造店（磐城寿）, 御祖酒造（遊穂）, 数馬酒造（竹葉）, 新澤醸造店（伯楽星）, 鶴野酒造店（谷泉）, 日吉酒造店（金瓢白駒）, 加越酒造（加賀ノ月）, 車多酒造（天狗舞）高澤酒造場（曙）
The 2024 Dragon Brings Good Fortune
Hiroshima- It was a minor if not somewhat predictable forecast in the editorial of our January 1 release, however it seems we were right on the money - and so are some breweries.
According to the Chinese Zodiac, 2024 is the year of the dragon, and a number of sake breweries that bear the either "ryū" or "tatsu", the two readings of the kanji character for dragon, in their product names have seen a surge in sales in the first month of the year.
Ryūsei (Fujii Shuzō) had already gained attention after the katsu-nigori (sparkling cloudy) was one of the sake served to visiting dignitaries at the G7 summit in Hiroshima in 2023.
This year the brewery has already shipped 2200 bottles and fifth generation kuramoto Yoshifumi Fujii is already concerned about being able to keep up with orders.
Fujii Shuzō has faced crisis twice in the past couple of years after heavy rain caused flooding and major damage setbacks.
Fujii Shuzō has switched to kimoto-style brewing exclusively for all the sake starting this brewing season, and in December recorded the highest sales in the brewery’s history.
Hyogo- Meanwhile, Honda Shōten’s flagship label, Tatsuriki, which translates directly to “dragon power”, has released its 12-year aged sake, Akitsu. The sake was produced in the last year of the dragon in 2012.
Akitsu is brewed using Yamadanishiki from the Akitsu region in Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture - a highly regarded region for growing Yamada Nishiki.
JG: I honestly think that these producers should make the most of the dragon thing, for the whole year. After all, sake in many markets is just as much about marketing and image than anything else, and it is hard to get more cool than a dragon.
藤井酒造（龍勢）活濁酒 , 本田商店（龍力）, 秋津
Awaji's Phoenix Rises From The Ashes
Hyogo- Sennen Ichi Shuzō has voiced its support for the earthquake-affected Noto region as it released this year's Senmusui, a sake that marks a dark period in the brewery's history.
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