Welcome to Issue #76 of SIN.
As the seasons crossover and we firmly head into the cooler months, we also begin to clearly see some of the variations that sake can offer.
This beginning of the brewing season means we see plenty of fresh, spritzy shiboritate namazake straight out of the press - arguably best enjoyed chilled and young. However, the cooler weather may be inspiring some drinkers to reach into the cellar for a bottle of something more suited for kanzake, like a gut-punching yamahai, perhaps even with a little age on it.
That the season for fresh, chilled sake comes at a time when many of us (at least those of us in the northern hemisphere) may be looking for something quite the opposite could be a line from the classic nineties song, "Ironic" by Alanis Morrisette (don't pretend you don't know it). However it does also highlight the range of sake's repertoire.
It's also a timely reminder that your tastes need not be dictated by the calendar. If you're the type of drinker that enjoys fresh, young fruity sake out of a wine glass, then you do you, and enjoy it - regardless of the weather report. And likewise, just because the arrival of this year's shinshu is being shouted from the rafters doesn’t mean you have to embrace it. If you prefer something a little more mellow and mature, move along and go with whatever fills your taco. After all, there's a sake for everyone and it would be a boring old scene if everyone were the same.
And now for the news...
The Return Of Yūki Shuzō
Hokkaido- In May this year Ibaraki-based brewery, Yūki Shuzō, was destroyed by a devastating fire that saw the brewery's production brought to an indefinite halt. Six months on and finally the husband and wife team of Masaaki and Michiko Urasato are on the slow road to recovery.
After the initial cleanup and release of salvaged sake, the next steps to take were uncertain. However, thanks to help in the form of a fellow brewery, sake from Yūki Shuzō could be back again soon.
Michizakura Shuzō has opened its doors and tanks to Michiko, allowing her to brew her sake in its new brewing facility (Michizakura Shuzō relocated to Hokkaido from Gifu in 2020).
The two breweries actually have close ties having previously collaborated on a sake in March this year following both breweries’ success at the Hokkaido Sake Awards. The result was a sake released under the name Michikozakura. There were plans to do a follow-up sake again in April however this was obviously derailed by the fire.
Using kōji and yeast brought from Ibaraki Prefecture, Michiko has been able to capture the essence of her signature sake using the water of Hokkaido. Although Michiko and her husband still long to be able to brew sake again in their hometown, she said, "I cannot believe that I am smelling the same aroma as I did in Yūki Shuzō. We're so lucky to have this kind of help from a fellow brewery."
Yuki Shuzō's Hokkaido produced sake is due for release in December.
JG: SIN has been following this story closely, as have plenty of other people and media. No matter how many times I read it, I feel so much admiration for the cooperative and supportive spirit underpinning all that is unfolding with Yuki Shuzō and Michizakura Shuzō. Like everyone else, I look forward to purchasing some of the sake to show my support. I just hope I can score some.
結城酒造 , 三千櫻酒造
Who Made The Cut In Toyama?
Toyama- The Toyama Sake Brewers Association is at it again as they prepare for the latest release of Toyama Blend, an annual release made with a blend of sake from 16 breweries in the region.
Toyama Blend was first released in 2020 in an effort to overcome the decline in sake consumption when the COVID pandemic struck.
On September 17, a judging committee made up mostly of brewers, sorted through the submissions to decide the blend for this year's release.
The selected sake was then blended to create a prototype sake.
According to the Prefectural Sake Brewers Association, the Toyama Blend has already been well received, with enquiries coming in from inside and outside the prefecture, resulting in a slight increase in production volume.
Bottling of this year's Toyama Blend is scheduled to begin in mid-November, and will be available at supermarkets and other stores in Toyama Prefecture (and possibly other regions) from December 2.
Source - NHK
JG: In all honesty, I would prefer to taste the idiosyncrasies of each individual brewer, but the blend is being done with care and intention, and as such I am sure it will be super enjoyable too.
Can't Go Too Low For Some Breweries
Miyagi- An art and technology innovations venture, Artlogue has collaborated with Niizawa Shuzō (maker of Atagonomatsu and Hakurakusei) to launch an uber-premium luxury sake using rice milled to a tiny 7 percent.
The sake, which was released on October 18, is presented in two formats, NIIZAWA and NIIZAWA KIZASHI featuring label artwork designed by Katsuhiko Hibino and Ellie Oyama. Both versions are made with locally grown Kurano Hana rice that was painstakingly milled to 7 percent in a process taking 350 hours. Both sake were made using in-house yeast.
Although the sake is now available, you may need to sell a kidney to get one as they are retailing for JPY66k (USD451) for the NIIZAWA, and JPY44k (USD300) for the NIIZAWA KIZASHI.
It could be time to take advantage of the weak yen.
Source - PR Times
JG: It could also be time to take advantage of the the fact that God gave me two kidneys.
新澤酒造（愛宕の松 伯楽星）
Yamaguchi's (not so) Dirty Dozen
Yamaguchi- The Yamaguchi Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, in cooperation with the local government, has launched Hikaru, a uniform brand of local sake for the Chinese market. The project is part of the "Yamaguchi Sake Export Project" launched last year by the prefectural government and the brewers' association, driven by the goal to regain some of the demand that fell due to the COVID pandemic. The sake is designed to pair well with Chinese hot pot (nabe) dishes.
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